Travelogue: Planning a 2-Day Photo Trip to Death Valley
Over the last 17 years, I’ve visited the Death Valley National Park more than a dozen times and taken well over 10,000 photos. My short, 2-day trips would coincide with the end of a long business trip to Las Vegas – usually in April for a trade show & timed nicely with the spring wildflower season. Since the compressed schedule limited my time in the park, I’ve been able to fine-tune a schedule through trial-and-error that works pretty well for me – and maybe for you too.
Start Here
Unless traveling from southern California, Las Vegas is the ideal starting point. The city is built for crowds, so there are plenty of flights and many hotels to choose from. I prefer the smaller chain hotels over the large casinos since they’re less crowded, it’s easier to get a meal and the parking is much closer to your room. Remember, you’re not spending much time in this room, so clean & convenient trumps big & glitzy.
I’ve driven all sorts of rental cars to Death Valley, ranging from minivans (practical, but dull), convertibles (fun, but not roomy) and sports cars (zoom zoom, but expensive to fill the tank). There are some unpaved roads in the park worth exploring where the above are not good choices and in fact, are strictly against the rental company rules – so keep this in mind when choosing your car!
If you need a 4WD for just a day, they can be rented in Furnace Creek (Farabee’s Jeep Rentals).
The rental car from my last trip, impractical - but sure was fun!
Wildflowers in bloom.
King Palms in Furnace Creek
The Schedule
My time in Death Valley is organized around two events: sunrise and sunset – when I find the quality of the light to be the most interesting. I’ll arrive at my destination anywhere from 60-90 minutes before sunrise and about 2 hours before sunset. This gives enough time to hike and scout the area where I want to take photos.
Note: The high peaks in the Black Mountains to the east and the Panamint range to the west (Telescope Peak to the west reaches 11,043’/3366m) delay the sun’s rays into the valley, resulting in an extended period where the light is reflected off the sky. This creates a soft blue/violet cast to the surroundings and is unlike anything I’ve seen elsewhere.
I fill the time between sunrise and sunset with breakfast and one or two small side trips. Death Valley is the largest national park in the lower 48-states (5,270m2 / 3 million acres), is 120 miles long and has about 1,000 miles of road. It is impossible to see the park in two days and in all my trips, there are still many areas I’ve yet to explore. Therefore, the side-trips I take are fairly limited and designed to get me there and back in time for a sunset shoot.
The First Morning
Death Valley is about a two-hour drive north of Las Vegas. I usually opt for the longer of the two routes and drive to Beatty, NV via Rt. 95 and from there the short trip to the Rhyolite ghost town.
Depending on the time of year, the first light begins about 60 minutes before sunrise. If you arrive in this time slot, you’ll be rewarded by a light which is soft, shadowless, and a pleasing bluish color. Sunrise over the low mountains happens suddenly and the light changes quickly to the typical harsh and contrasty desert sun.
I plan by arrival time using information at Time and Place Info (though any weather app will also have this info) which for me has meant departing Las Vegas between 3:30 and 4:00 AM. I’ll photograph in Rhyolite until about 9:00 AM, then head off for the hour drive to Furnace Creek for breakfast and the hotel check-in.
For more information, read my blog on the Rhyolite ghost town here.
The ruins of the school in Rhyolite
The Second Morning
My second favorite place to photograph in Death Valley is in Golden Canyon and the trail to Manly Beacon. While many choose to greet the sunrise at Zabriskie Point, I’ve never liked this vantage point and it can get quite crowded. Instead, the approach through Golden Canyon is on the western side of Zabriskie Point and the east/west orientation of the canyon is aligned perfectly with the rising sun.
As the sun rises, the color of the rocks transitions from a monotone/bluish color to brilliant gold and ochres. There are plenty of side canyons and drainage fans to explore along the trail before reaching Manly Beacon, an 800’ pinnacle that stands out from the badlands. It’s hard to take a bad photograph during this time.
The entrance to Golden Canyon is about 3.5 miles from the Furnace Creek Visitor Center along Badwater Road. There is a good-sized parking lot at the trailhead and bathroom facilities (no running water). Plan to arrive an hour before sunrise for the 1.5 mile / 45-minute hike to Manly Peak. The trail is pretty deserted at this time, and you may only run into a few other hikers / photographers. After breakfast, the canyon can get quite crowded, and it is not uncommon to see tour buses and large groups. However, I find the light has changed after 9:00 AM, becoming too contrasty for my tastes – so I’ve never had to deal with the tourists.
For more information, read my blog on Golden Canyon here.
Daytime Choices
As mentioned above, I fill the time between sunrise and sunset with one or two side-trips. There are many areas within a 60–90-minute drive of Furnace Creek, and I’ve visited the following over the years:
Badwater Basin
The biggest tourist attraction in Death Valley, the area boasts the lowest elevation in North America at 282’/86m below sea level. The area is a short 20-minute / 15-mile drive from Furnace Creek on Badwater Road, look for the parking lot on the right side. There are bathroom facilities, but no running water.
Aside from the touristy photos, there’s not a lot that I find attractive at this site – but it’s worth a visit to 'check the box' and to say you’ve been there.
Charcoal Kilns
Built in 1877, these beehive-like structures provided a source of fuel for use by smelters servicing the silver mines. The area is a 90-minute trip from Furnace Creek and the drive along CA-190 E is often filled with wildflowers depending on the season and rainfall.
I've only visited this area during midday and the direct overhead sunlight never made for a particularly good photo. But it’s a nice drive and the history is interesting.
Darwin Falls
Located a few miles west of Stovepipe Wells off CA-190, Darwin Falls is an oasis amid the Mojave Desert. The spring fed waterfall is about 18’/5.5m high and drops into a small pool, rich with vegetation and water plants. The area is a 75-minute / 60-mile drive from Furnace Creek, follow signs for Darwin Falls Road (unpaved) and drive about 2.5 miles to the unmarked trailhead. It’s about a 2-mile hike to the waterfall from the parking area.
The sight of the waterfall amid the dry arid desert is a real surprise and worth the hike. Some good photos of the pool and the waterfall can be taken at midday, when the overhead sun works to your advantage and provides ample light in the canyon.
Devil’s Golf Course
This salt basin received its nickname in a 1934 National Park guidebook, which stated “only the devil could play golf” here. The surface is made up of large salt crystals which are the dried-up remnants of an ancient lake from 10,000 years ago. The area is a short 17min / 10-mile drive from Furnace Creek and accessible at the end of a short road (unpaved) off Badwater Road.
I’ve photographed this area at sunrise a couple of times on my way to Golden Canyon. A wide-angle lens really emphasizes the expanse of the valley and salt basin.
Mosaic Canyon
The canyon was carved out of the surrounding mountains through grit laden flash floods. Over time, these floods scoured the canyon walls and smoothed the marble to a beautiful finish. The area is located 34-minutes / 27-miles from Furnace Creek, follow signs for Mosaic Canyon Road (unpaved) immediately after leaving Stovepipe Wells on CA-190E. The trailhead is located about 2.3 miles/3.7km) off the main road. While the trail itself is about 4-miles round trip, you will see signs of the smooth marble walls within the first ¼ mile.
I’ve visited this canyon on a couple occasions when planning a dusk visit to the Mesquite Flat Dunes. Since the canyon is narrow and tends to run north-south, the lighting can be tricky. I’ve gotten some good photos in mid-afternoon when the sun is directly overhead.
Note: be attentive to the weather conditions when hiking in this narrow canyon. If there is any chance of rain in the mountains, there is a danger of flash-flooding and little time to gain high ground.
Salt Creek
One of the few areas in the valley with open water. A raised, wooden walkway provides access to the creek and protects the fragile environment, which includes the rare Pupfish. The area is a short 6-minute / 5-mile trip from Furnace Creek.
I’ve photographed this area at sunrise and during midday, the former being the more interesting of the two choices.
Scotty’s Castle
Built as a vacation home in 1922 and located in the Grapevine Mountains in the northern end of Death Valley. The home has a unique history and is fascinating to tour, but a severe flood in 2015 damaged the property. It has remained closed for repairs and is not scheduled to reopen until at least 2022. The area is a 60-minute 54-mile trip from Furnace Creek.
There are some interesting photos to be taken on the grounds, including the antique cars in the garage.
Ubehebe Crater
A volcanic explosion occurring between 300-2100 years ago resulted in a 600’ deep, 1/2-mile diameter crater that exposed the rock strata. The area is located at the northern end of the park, about a 70-minute / 56-mile drive from Furnace Creek.
It’s an interesting area to explore, though I’ve not yet taken a ‘keeper’ photo in this area.
Badwater Basin
Wildrose Charcoal Kilns
Darwin Falls
Devil's Golf Course
Mosaic Canyon
Salt Creek
Scotty's Castle
The First Evening
The Mesquite Flat Dunes is one of five sand dune regions in Death Valley and the easiest to reach. Located about 2-miles off CA-190E and just before the Stovepipe Wells waystation, the area is serviced by a large parking lot – which can attract a large crowd. My preference is to park on the side of the road just west of the parking lot and at the beginning of the dune range. The hike to the largest peak is easier from this location, as opposed to going up and down multiple sand dunes ranges.
Photographing on the dunes during sunset is a magical time. During my many visits to the park, I’ll spend time at the Mesquite Flat Dunes at least once and sometimes twice. When the sun gets low and before disappearing over the mountains, the shadows emphasize the ripples in the sand and the curves of the dunes. Once the sun dips below the peaks, the area is transformed into subtle shades of blue. It is quite a unique experience.
For more information, read my blog on the Mesquite Flat Dunes here.
The Second Evening
My location choice for the second evening will depend on how well the photo shoot went the night before. I may choose to revisit the dunes if I need a few more shots – or if the weather conditions are different. If not, I’ll usually head over to the Artist Palette, a hillside made up of multi-colored volcanic deposits rich in iron oxide and chlorite compounds. The setting sun dramatically highlights the red, orange, yellow, blue, pink, and green colors in the rocks
The Artist Palette area is accessed via the Artist Palette Scenic Loop drive, just off Badwater Road and 19-minutes / 10-miles from Furnace Creek. For more information visit here.
Another option is to plan for a night-time photo shoot of the stars. The night sky in Death Valley can be spectacular. Most nights are cloud free and the location is far enough from Vegas where the only issue with light pollution is for southern facing shots. Death Valley is one of three parks in the United States dark enough to be listed by the International Dark Sky Association, providing ample views of the Milky Way and the star field.
For more information, read my blog on Night Photography in Death Valley here.
A small canyon off the Artist Palette Scenic Loop
Night Sky on Mesquite Flat Dunes
Lodging & Food Choices
Lodgings in Death Valley are limited and should be booked well in advance, especially in the spring when the wildflowers are in bloom. There are two hotels in Furnace Creek, The Inn at Death Valley, and The Ranch at Death Valley. I’ve always opted for the Ranch since it’s less expensive and I spend little time in the room except for sleeping. You can also opt for the Stovepipe Wells Village Hotel, which I’ve never stayed in – but gets good reviews. Camping sites are also available - if you are so inclined.
There are several restaurants within the park and while the choices are limited, I’ve not yet had a bad meal. In Furnace Creek, you’ll find the Inn Dining Room, The Ranch 1849 Restaurant, and the Last Kind Words Saloon. At Stovepipe Wells, you have the choice of Badwater Saloon or the Toll Road Restaurant (currently closed). These restaurants close between 8:00 PM and 9:00 PM, so if you plan on photographing into the evening, keep these times in mind.
Sundries, drinks, and microwave meals can also be purchased in the general stores in both Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells.
Final Odds & Ends
It should be noted visitors die every year in Death Valley due to poor planning or a misplaced footstep. It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of security with the paved roads, parking lots etc. - but these are not the areas you'll be taking photos of. To get the most from your trip - while remaining safe, you should plan on what is needed for a 2–3-hour hike away from an air-conditioned car. Proper clothing and footwear to match the weather and rocky trails is essential - not to mention a hat and sunscreen. Last, but certainly not least, is the need to carry plenty of water - at least a gallon/day/person.
Last, there are many other resources available for planning a trip to Death Valley. The National Park Service provides a good primer on the history, geology, and ecology of the park. You can also peruse Instagram and Flickr to look at photos of the park taken by others for inspiration. This will give you an idea of where you would like to visit and at what time of the day.
Enjoy and be safe!
