Hiking Golden Canyon to Manly Beacon

There are some mornings worth an early rise and a hike through Golden Canyon is one of them. Since I’m usually photographing late into the previous evening, the 5:00 AM wake-up call always comes a little early. But since my visits to Death Valley are limited, I set aside any second thoughts and in hindsight - these pre-dawn hikes have been some of my favorite times. At this time of day, there’s not a sole in sight or sound to be heard. For a NYC metro resident, it’s a unique moment and something to be treasured in our fast-paced world.

My goal is to arrive at Manly Beacon just as the sun is rising. This imposing, 800’ peak stands out from the surrounding badlands and is impossible to miss. While many photographers favor the eastern side of the peak and the view of Zabriskie Point, I’ve never found this angle to be interesting and it can get a little crowded. Instead, a 30’ walk up through Golden Canyon presents a view of the western facing side of the peak that few bother to see at sunrise.

Arriving at the parking lot an hour or so before the sun rises allows some time to hike through the lower part of the canyon and to explore the chutes and drainages off the main trail. These areas consist mostly of yellow and white caked mud, which is composed of the remnants of an ancient lakebed and drainage off the surrounding mountains. The rising sun highlights these shapes and can create some interesting patterns.

The trail will split a mile or so from the parking lot, with the left going towards Red Cathedral - a towering wall of red fluted rocks. While dramatic, it doesn’t benefit from the early morning light, and I’ve never found the area to be very photogenic. Taking the trail to the right will lead to Manly Beacon, the aforementioned 800’ peak and my usual target. Arriving just as the sun is rising both backlights the peak while also highlighting the frontside in a warm, golden light reflected off the surrounding hills. It’s quite dramatic and worth the early morning wake-up.

There is literally a ‘golden hour’ in Golden Canyon, a time when the first hints of color can be seen in the rocks and before the sun gets too high overhead and the area is awash in an ‘atomic level’ blast of sunshine. During this hour, the canyon is a wonderous sight, full of subtle details and shadows. There really isn’t a bad photograph you can make.

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Camera Gear

I typically use a wide-angle (18mm or 21mm) when shooting in the canyon, which allows me to photograph in close quarters while also emphasizing the dramatic vistas. I prefer to handhold the camera using a wrist strap, which keeps the gear at the ready and allows freedom of movement for creative composition. I’ll use the lowest ISO possible to achieve a 1/500s shutter speed at the aperture of choice, while also selectively exposure bracketing when there is an extreme difference between the highlights and shadows (which is quite common once the sun rises).

Since I’m hiking east towards a rising sun, controlling flare to minimize ghosting and maintain contrast is critical. This is best done with the proper choice of lens (usually ZEISS), along with using a good UV filter and the lens shade. Dust on the sensor glass and on the lens' surface will be emphasized under these conditions, so proper cleaning of the gear is important before starting out on the hike. You’ll also find that ‘fogging’ the lens/filter for cleaning with a microfiber is all but impossible due to the low humidity. You’ll need a good lens brush, blower and some lens cleaning wipes or solution.

Last, I’ve learned from experience that the best photograph is not always the one in front of you. Sometimes, it is worth turning around to see if there’s a shot from the rear side. I’ve captured quite a few keepers in this way.

Getting There

Access to Golden Canyon is off Badwater Road and about 3.5 miles south of the Furnace Creek visitor center. This canyon hike is one of the most popular Death Valley. The area gets very busy after breakfast, and it is not uncommon to see tour buses and large groups. The small parking lot will fill quickly, so plan your trip accordingly. 

For more information on Golden Canyon, visit: https://www.nps.gov/deva/planyourvisit/golden-canyon.htm