Evenings at the Mesquite Flat Dunes

The Death Valley National Park - famously known as the area with the lowest elevation (282’/86m below sea level) and the highest recorded temperature (134F/56.7C) in North America – is a region of stark contrasts and stunning terrain. Surrounded by high peaks on the east and west, the area was the site of an ancient glacial lake about 10,000 years ago with depths of 600’/183m and a length of a 100 miles/161km. As the lake dried, it created the valley’s unique geology, perhaps none more so than the sand dunes – and my favorite place to photograph.

Of the five sand dune regions in Death Valley, the best known and easiest to reach are the Mesquite Flat Dunes. Located just outside of Stovepipe Wells and about a two-mile hike from Rt. 190, the dunes reach a height of more than 100’/30m. Depending on the time of year, the area can be heavily trafficked and finding a pristine spot to photograph is often challenging. But it does not take long for the wind to sweep away the footprints, reshaping the dunes and removing any signs of human activity.

Over the last 17 years, I’ve visited Death Valley and the Mesquite Flat Dunes more than a dozen times. Photographing the dunes, like many locations in Death Valley, is all about timing. The light can be harsh and uninteresting up to 4:00 PM, but then the magic starts. As the sun begins to set, textures and shadows emerge from the landscape. The light transforms to a golden hue until abruptly changing as the sun drops below the Panamint peaks. Though the park is cast into shadow, the sun is still fairly high in the sky, reflecting blues and violets back into the valley floor. The dunes are transformed again, becoming subtle and almost fragile looking. Once the sun finally sets below the horizon, Death Valley becomes one of the darkest regions in the USA, showcasing a sky filled with countless stars.

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Camera Gear

The vistas beg for a wide-angle lens, and I’ll generally pick a 15mm, 18mm or 21mm. When photographing across the top of the dunes, I’ll choose a short-telephoto to help compress the foreground and background. I’m a believer in prime lenses (usually ZEISS) over a zoom for their superior image quality and typically stick with one focal length per shooting session. This helps me to better visualize and frame the photo based on the angle-of-view of that lens. I tend not to use a tripod, as it allows me to change camera position faster. While there is a prolonged period of dusk on the dunes, the light does change quickly.

It can get very windy on the dunes and protecting your gear from blowing sand is critical. I’ve never felt the need to use a rain/weather bag, but I do limit lens changes and keep the gear covered when not in use. I’ll also give the gear a good cleaning back at the hotel and inspect the sensor glass for dust.

All my gear is packed into a light-weight backpack, which includes plenty of water, sunscreen, and a few protein bars. Even in the off-season, it can get hot and dry on the dunes, with temperatures over 90F/32C in March and April quite common.

Getting There

The Mesquite Flat Dunes are located just east of Stovepipe Wells, a waystation in central Death Valley National Park. There is a large parking lot serving the area, but I find the location too busy for my taste. Instead, I park along Rt 190 at the far western range of the sand dunes and hike in from there. The dune hills run east to west, so I generally pick the range with the highest peak and furthest to the north and then begin walking east. It takes about 45 minutes to reach the highest peak, so I start out about two hours before sunset and scout the locations I’ll photograph as the sun sets.

To find out more about the sand dunes in Death Valley, visit:
 https://www.nps.gov/deva/learn/nature/sand-dunes.htm

Staying There

Lodgings in Death Valley are limited and should be booked well in advance, especially in the spring when the wildflowers are in bloom. The nearest lodging is at the Stovepipe Wells Village Hotel and an additional two hotels in Furnace Creek, The Inn at Death Valley and The Ranch at Death Valley. There is a good restaurant and bar at the Stovepipe Village Hotel, and nothing beats a cold brew to get rid of the taste of sand. If you plan on grabbing dinner there, check the restaurant hours before heading out to the dunes – since they don’t operate late into the night.

For more information and reservations for the Stovepipe Wells Village, visit:
 https://deathvalleyhotels.com